New York Fashion Week 2010
by Jarleen Samboy
Issue date: 3/1/10 Section: Fashion
|
Decadent Fur
We all know diamonds are a girl's best friend, but what'about furs? After all, isn't it how diamonds are best accompanied? Fur was everywhere, whether real or faux, long or short, in the form of vests, boleros, and accessories; but surely with a hint of panache, designers from Phillip Lim and Ralph Lauren to Halston, to name a few, ventured into luxe territory. New designer to Halston, Marios Schwab, showed his keenness for fur sleeves, in a sweater dress and a wool coat. Gilles Mendel, of J. Mendel, a family known to have built one of the most successful houses of fur, brought out some of the most exquisite pieces, showing interesting depths in shades, a demonstration of how to wear fur, and his virtuoso techniques in working with it. More than half the looks in his collection were comprised of pairings with fur outerwear. From chiffon dresses, both long and short, to trousers and skirts, everything seemed to accentuate his furry pieces. Phillip Lim's collection was adorned with something more, the glitz and sparkle of sequins. Ralph Lauren put fur on some of the most unexpected and expected forms: bags and boots.
Le Mini Jupe
We will see hems getting shorter for fall 2010, the trend that was scorched in the nineties is making a full come back. The collections of Monique Lhuillier, Proenza Schouler, and Vena Cava were full of mini jupes. The mini skirt has returned in wool, leather, tulle, and even feathered. Short hems were given a luxurious twist, worn with a myriad of elegant jackets, embellished sweaters, silk button downs, cotton tops and blouses. Designer Proenza Schouler paired them with playful over the knee tights, Monique Lhuillier with patterned and lace ones and Vena Cava with sheer black hosiery. This vigorously sexy style introduces the new boot trend; they can be worn at every length now that there is more skin to show.
Splashes of Pattern, Print, and Color
Agyness Deyn, Karen Elson, and Sasha Pivovarova strutted their stuff down the catwalk showing Anna Sui's whimsical designs, her eternal love of print and color as well. For who other than Anna Sui, with her passion for art, can bring us such joy in the middle of these trying economic times? Sui's looks were composed of prints, on top of prints, more print and what else but a touch of print. Yet, there was order and I dare say eloquence in her madness that reminded me of that bohemian flair we all yearn for. Her collection had something Biba-esque deeply embedded in it, which conveys retro chic. Oscar de la Renta also enlightened fashion week with his patterns, but it was his vibrancy and boldness that gobsmacked the crowd with such fearless use of color. His fabrics, so rich in quality, his mastery of embroidery and virtue in design by far assert why he has become a favorite for red carpet events. For DKNY, Donna Karan didn't play much with color; on the other hand, she played with patterns in earth tones and prints. Sweaters, tops and outerwear of lively colors accentuated dresses with patterns and prints. More of these colors were seen at Halston where shades of china red, wine, turquoise and yellow welcomed the cold crowds. Nanette Lepore and Rachel Roy followed suit with looks in fuchsia, sea blue and burnt orange.
Velvet & Suede
There was plenty of velvet and suede this fashion week, starting with Alexander Wang, whose collection included lush velvet fabric in brown, gray and black. Other designers, like Ralph Lauren, opted for jewel tones. Here we saw velvet dresses, vests, jackets, and long skirts. What might seem like dated fabrics to some, appeared runway worthy to many more. To avoid overload, each piece was layered either with long sleeve shirts or fabrics of silk or wool. Such combinations were present at Derek Lam, where much of the suede was fringed, a trend that seems to have continued to be en vogue.
Be the first to comment on this story